Category Archives: 2009

2009 Cantina Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo

You recognize the bottle by the piece of vine that is incorporated. My shot of the label is so blurry, it does not really help.

Just a short tasting note today. We are in full preparation mode for our Germany trip and expecting a visitor this weekend.

Last night, we were invited over to friends and brought this bottle of wine. I had picked it up a while back, and had read a great review HERE! somewhere, cannot find it anymore. If it was you, give me a sign and the link and I will enter it here. The dinner was spaghetti with a pancetta, roast red peppers and chili sauce with parsley, so I figured this wine should be working well with it.

The nose was quite appealing, no distinguishable notes for me. Directly after opening, the wine was still somewhat unbalanced, and I noticed some sauerkraut notes (seriously!). It was not unpleasant, but definitely surprising. After half an hour the wine had opened up to a really appealing fruity wine. With strawberry jam in the nose, and a round, balanced acid-flavor structure on the palate. Combined with the chili in the dish, the wine’s peppery notes raced over my tongue.

We finished the night with some bourbon (Hirsch and Five Roses) and called it a day. For about $12, I think this is a decent enough wine.

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2009 Sterling Vintner’s Collection Meritage

I am just realizing this is my first blog entry on red wine…see, I am not as one dimensional as you thought!

Prior to buying this, I had never seen the name Meritage before, so I checked it out and found this on it: It is a term coined by American winemakers, that stands for Bordeaux-style wines. This means not one or two grape varietals but rather a blend of several varietals to create a complex and harmonious product. Some California winemakers decided to found the Meritage Association (now: Meritage Alliance) in 1988 and you have to be a member to label wines “Meritage”. A clever guy came up with a combination of “merit” and “heritage”, so it is to be pronounced like heritage, just with an “m”…

While modern times have become more and more obsessed with single variety wines (you know what I’m talking about when you look at your supermarket’s or winestore’s wine displays), it is not at all uncommon to blend several grapes into one wine. Bordeaux is the prime example, but also Chianti classico is made of several varietals (until a couple of years ago, they could even include white grapes!) same as a lot of wines from Portugal’s Douro region. It gives winemakers the unique chance of blending different tastes together into one. I personally like blended wines, the rough edges of a cabernet sauvignon can be mellowed by merlot for example. When I once talked to a Douro winemaker friend of mine and mentioned that I had tried and hated a single varietal “tinta barocca” in South Africa, he looked at me in shock. How could anyone make single variety tinta barocca, he asked? It is a classic filler grape for bigger reds…

Now on to this one. Sterling is a huge winery in Napa Valley. You can check out their site here (with elevator music…). The Vintner’s Collection is their “cheap”, really mass label. We paid about $10, I think. This Meritage (thankfully they put that on the label) has 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 7% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot in it. Upon pouring, it showed its not overly dark color, which I found surprising. I had expected a way darker red. The nose was strong and full of different smells: initially strawberry hit me, then vanilla and cherry. Somewhere in the middle, herbal and floral notes crept in and I think I smelled some very light tobacco as well. It was awesome. I have not had a bold red in a while, and this reminded me of all things good. The taste was chewy and powerful. Initially smoky, leathery, some black pepper. Then red fruits came in. There was a distinct note of acidity that gave the impression of some unripe grapes in the wine. This acidity also made the wine taste more like plums, which I found appealing. The finish is ok.

I did like this wine. It was bold and not ashamed of it. Especially given that it was mass-produced I did like it. Some imbalances, the acidity, but all in all a very decent wine. Oh, and it went well with the pizza we had, too.

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2009 Hans Lang Rheingau Riesling Spaetlese – Edition Maximilian

Quite the disappointment…

I have decided to not even take a picture of this bottle. If you have to see it, go here. This is a wine by one of the “better” winemakers in Germany, Hans Lang (strangely, I could not find a homepage for them), and it is readily available through Trader Joe’s for a very enticing $8.99. Now, this really low price for a spaetlese already tells you that it is probably not one of the first rated wines of this winery. The name – “Edition Maximilian” – should also be an indication of that…however, the winemaker is a member of the prestigious VDP (an elite club of winemakers in Germany that selects its own members that then have to adhere to higher quality standards), so I thought the wine should at least have some potential, because even more basic wines can be good.

Well, not this one. At first there was an unimpressive, alcoholic and slightly sour smell that mellowed out after a while. The wine was of clear, light yellow color. I could taste some strawberries, some vanilla, pear. The acidity in the wine seemed rather high, and in total not very well balanced by some hints of sweetness. The finish is short, with again, hints of vanilla. I could not help but think that the winemaker was not sure where to go with this wine: sweeter, not so sweet, spaetlese or rather not? It is not a bad wine, but it also seemed to lack so much. Especially when you consider that the winemaker probably knows what he is doing, and that a spaetlese should be stunner, not a bummer. It feels like he was going for a simple wine that would be a quick sell. Seems like a lost opportunity.

If this was my first German riesling spaetlese, I would have no clue what all the fuss was about and would stay away. I’ll sure stay clear of this one.

To be fair: Others do think differently, see e.g. here (calling it “delicious”).

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