Tag Archives: Namibia

What it means to me to be back in Southern Africa

These last nine days, Nina and I traveled around 3,600 kilometers (a bit over 2,300 miles) throughout Southern Africa. We started our journey by arriving in Johannesburg, moved on to Gaborone (Botswana’s capital, where we met), then an 11 hour drive to Windhoek (Namibia’s capital, beating Google Maps’ 14 hour forecast). From there we moved on to Swakopmund at the coast, and then down to Stellenbosch where we currently are for the next couple of days. We’ll be enjoying wines and meetings with winemakers, what promises to be excellent food (we haven’t had a chance to try any of it), all with the generous support of Stellenbosch Wine Routes, who are hosting us for the next few days.

Credit: Google Maps

Credit: Google Maps

Southern Africa has played a major part in our lives and in our life together. It was in Botswana that Nina and I first met, at a sports bar called Linga Longa (yes, it was really called that!). We were both watching the Euro (Europe’s equivalent to the World Cup) in 2008, and during one of the matches I had the audacity to sit down right in Nina’s view of the screen. Lucky for me, I realized it and apologized. That seems to have been enough to get her to talk to me…during the Germany – Portugal game was when we had our first real conversation….Shortly after my return to Germany we decided to give us a chance, and we haven’t regretted it since.

Back at Linga Longa, Botswana

Back at Linga Longa, Botswana

We decided to go back this summer. I liked to point out before the trip that this must be a sure way to ruin your relationship: Returning to the place you met, when everything was still up in the air, and our love was only barely unfolding. When everything was just AWESOME. Now, we have all that “relationship baggage”, you get what I mean. I said it in jest, and nothing could be clearer now: It has not harmed us a bit. We had a blast in Gabs, going back to Linga Longa where we watched Germany play Portugal (just like in 2008, and Germany won again!). We went to the Beef Baron, easily Botswana’s most reputable steak house which serves insanely delicious steak. We revisited places of our past, and while it seemed strange at times, it always was strange in a good way.

Being sandblasted in the Namib Desert

Being sandblasted in the Namib Desert

We have done our fair share of traveling in Southern and Eastern Africa, and I think it is fair to say that we feel most at home in Southern Africa. The people are so friendly, and once you get used to Africa Time (which I HIGHLY recommend: Don’t stress out about delays or waiting periods, it’s a way of life, and there is no real harm in it) and accept that Southern Africa is a talking culture in which it matters that you greet each other, exchange pleasantries and don’t immediately demand things, there will be no better place on earth to help you relax. The light in the morning and evening is just stunning, the wide African sky spans its wings above you, in desolate areas you actually SEE the Milky Way, the wildlife. Just stunning.

On the Trans Kalahari Highway, somewhere in the Kalahari, early in the morning.

On the Trans Kalahari Highway, somewhere in the Kalahari, early in the morning.

Southern Africa offers us a feeling of home, be it in Botswana or Namibia or now in South Africa. We have met great people along the way, everyone is ready to help, assist, move us along. We are actively contemplating spending a half year or so in the region, to work, but to also live here. It’s been a great homecoming for us, and having been able to add Namibia to our ever expanding list of countries we have to revisit has been an added bonus. You won’t believe the diversity in these virtually empty stretches of land (Namibia is the size of Alaska with 2.2 million inhabitants, and Botswana is the size of France but has only about 2 million inhabitants). While the distances may sound intimidating, the roads are in great condition. If you ever consider traveling the region I highly recommend you drive as much as you can so that you can see more of the countryside.  No need for a guide or driver or a 4×4. We have been driving a Hyundai i10 (a teeny tiny car) without a problem at all. Feel free to contact me whenever you contemplate a trip, we have a ton of tips and advice!

We are now facing four days in the good hands of Stellenbosch Wine Routes. We are super excited the time has come for this part of the trip, and we’ll share about it as much as we can! Our first stop is Majeka House, a wonderful boutique hotel just a bit South of Stellenbosch. We’ll write more about it in a bit, but suffice it to say, it feels great to be here.

Oh, and it turns out there is already a town named after Nina in Namibia….one less thing to worry about.

Nina at the place that is surely named after her.

Nina at the place that is surely named after her.

 

 

Tagged , , , , , , , , , ,

Repost: Savanna Dry – my not so secret cider love

We are currently in Windhoek, Namibia’s capital, and just returned from Swakopmund on the Atlantic. Tomorrow we are headed as far south as possible before it gets dark on our way to Stellenbosch. Being back in Southern Africa, an area of the world that I love dearly, I am also drinking a bunch of Savanna Dry again, a cider made in South Africa. It’s one of my favorite ciders, and I wrote a paean to it in October 2012, and have decided to repost it here:

South African Savanna Dry Premium Cider

South African Savanna Dry Premium Cider

 

I like to think that I discovered Savanna Dry ciders during my time in Botswana, because it would be nice to connect this discovery with my other two discoveries there (the other two being Pinotage and Nina). But that is not true. I actually first got exposed to it in 2005, when my ex brought some from a three month stint during her legal training in Stellenbosch…but I digress.

After my return from Botswana, I began looking for sources for it in Germany, and I was lucky. There was a guy who selling it (Germans, you can find his website here)! I admit, it is not cheap, but there hardly is anything like it to get that Southern Africa feeling back into my daily life. So, while Nina and I were living in Germany, we would usually have a box in our house, rationing ourselves in order not to overspend. But for our wedding celebration, we actually bought a couple of boxes to serve while people arrived at the venue…in the spirit of our relationship’s roots.

Here in the US, I have not seen it in stores, and online sellers here seem to be happy to completely overcharge their customers on shipping, so I give that a pass (the insanely high shipping and handling prices here will have to wait for a rant in a seperate post). So, when a friend of mine came to visit us from London this spring and asked what he could bring, I told him Savanna Dry. And he did bring two bottles, big bottles even (500 ml instead of the usual 330 ml)! We had one in the summer, and it was time to have this one the other night…leave aside all the emotional connections with it for me personally, and the first thing you notice is the awesome branding. I LOVE the label and the fact that they bottle it in clear glass, so the cider gives the label its appropriate background.

Savanna Dry is, as the name indicates, a dry cider (the company’s slogan is: “It’s dry but you can drink it.”). The color reminds me of the soft, warm sunlight of an afternoon in southern Africa. Its bubbles are never offensive, and it has this strong and great taste of yellow apples with a bit of tartness, sometimes it even reminds me of biting a bit too deep into the apple and getting the coarser inner bits that surround the kernels, which in this case is not offensive. The company website says it is made from apples in Elgin region in Western Cape province of South Africa. At 5.5% to 6% ABV it is just right for warm summer nights, but also when it gets colder. I like to throw in a slice of lemon for just the right punch of acidity and, I swear, I feel like I am back in Bots … where life is so much more pleasantly slow.

If you get a chance to try it, please do so! You can check out their website here.

Tagged , , , , , , , ,

Can’t believe summer is just around the corner, again…

It’s been a long winter in Michigan this year. There was a time, when I thought spring would never come. Then it came, and two days later we had the humid heat sweeping in that I associate with Michigan summers…I am not a fan of that, which is why we tend to spend the summers elsewhere. Like last year in South East Asia. Granted, the heat was also pretty humid over there, but there was so much to make it bearable: gorgeous beaches, awesome food, and even an awesome winery

The vineyards of GranMonte Winery

The vineyards of GranMonte Winery

Pretty much as soon as we got back from that trip, I put my foot down and declared that the summer of 2014 had to be spent in Europe. Non-negotiable. As much as I like living in the US for various reasons (and I do, despite the fact that I seem to constantly bitch about it), I have been missing Europe a lot: The close proximity of awesome places, affordable and great wine, the familiarity of things. Add in that my exchange brother from Burgundy (he now lives in Morey-St-Denis, for those familiar with the area) and I are celebrating knowing each other for 25 years this year. Our Silver Anniversary! Wow.

So we began making plans and it soon became clear that we would want to have at least two months, if not three. In the end, it all boiled down to available flights, and so I will now be across the ocean from May 27 until August 16. As we kept mailing with friends and family to figure out what to do, another thing emerged in our head: We have not been back to Africa since 2011 when we visited Kenya and Zanzibar. Given that we met in Botswana, we were beginning to dream of going to Southern Africa again…right as we were considering this, we found insanely cheap flights to Johannesburg, and ended up booking them even before we had our flights to Europe! Three weeks in Southern Africa had joined our itinerary.

I’ll spend about 10 days with my family around Mainz, and then will head to the UK to meet up with Nina and friends. We’ll spend about a week with friends in Oxford and then fly to Johannesburg.

It should be interesting, visiting Botswana again after all these years. I keep saying that that’s the way to ruin your relationship: Go back to the place where you met, and then realize how much “better” things were in those early days…;) Nah, I think we’ll be fine. The craziest thing is that we will be going to the pub where we met (aptly named Linga-Longa), and the night we arrive Germany will be playing Portugal in the World Cup. That’s crazy because the first time we really talked was when Germany was playing Portugal in the Euro Cup 2008…

Elephants in Chobe National Park, Botswana

Elephants in Chobe National Park, Botswana

From Bots we’ll head to Namibia to visit a friend for a few days, then down South to Cape Town. As soon as I knew we’d be going to Cape Town, I did some research on Stellenbosch and found the Stellenbosch Wine Routes association, a coordinated network of more than 148 wineries in the area. I reached out to them, and they have been incredibly helpful in putting together an itinerary for us that will include a bunch of winery visits and talks with winemakers as well as a vertical Pinotage tasting at Kanonkop, which is arguably one of the benchmarks of Pinotage. To say that we are excited is an understatement!

After a few more days in Cape Town, we will head back North, will take a detour into Lesotho, and then fly to Milan. We’ll have three weeks in Italy (a first for Nina, who, except for 24 hours in Rome, has not made it there), will visit wineries in Le Marche, Tuscany and the Campania region, and then will fly back to Germany just in time for my home village’s Weinfest (aka wine festival). After two more weeks in Germany, which we’ll spend considerable time of at the Mosel, we’ll head into Burgundy for a week: to celebrate with my exchange brother, and to explore the region more. Did I mention that my home village’s sister city is Pommard, and we already did a tasting with its mayor in the past?

In the Mayor of Pommard's cellars, Summer 2010

In the Mayor of Pommard’s cellars, Summer 2010

And then it is time to say good-bye to Europe, and head back to Michigan where we will move into a new apartment… Unlike last year, I decided not to start a guest blogging series despite the huge success it was. Mainly not to stretch my fellow writers’ good will more than necessary, but also because I hope to be blogging from Europe and Africa.

In any case, this should be an exciting summer.

Tagged , , , , , , ,
%d bloggers like this: