Category Archives: Germany

1987 Karl Erbes Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese

1987 Karl Erbes Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese

1987 Karl Erbes Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese

As I mentioned before, one of the things that have become a tradition at Nina’s birthday parties is that we open a bottle of 1987 Riesling, this time a Karl Erbes Erdener Treppchen Spätlese. We’re not sure for how much longer we can continue this, but for now we still have a few bottles…

Some of you might remember that one of my early posts on this blog was about the 1987 Vereinigte Hospitien Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese which we had for her birthday last year (see the post here – in an aside, I am just realizing that that post only garnered one like, from my good old blogging buddy Julian at Vinoinlove. Thanks, Julian!!). Back then I explained, that 1987 is considered a weaker year along the Mosel, so it is always a bit of a surprise when the wines held up.

Trying the 1987 Karl Erbes Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese was particularly interesting because the wine has pretty much exactly the same properties that the Hospitien wine had: Both from the same vineyard (albeit probably different areas within the vineyard), both 100% Riesling and both at Spätlese level, the medium category in the German wines with distinction level, which means they had comparable levels of ripeness in the grapes as measured in degree Oechsle.

The Treppchen borders the Ürziger Würzgarten and Erdener Prälat vineyards, in the photo it begins on the far right hand side.

Three grand cru vineyards (from left to right): Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Prälat and Erdener Treppchen

Three grand cru vineyards (from left to right): Ürziger Würzgarten, Erdener Prälat and Erdener Treppchen

The wine had 7.5% ABV and was made by Stefan Erbes’ father Karl Erbes. One of the many wonderful things about this winery is that they retain a significant number of older vintages at the winery which are for sale. So if you ever make it there, make sure to ask for their older wines, too. They are also quite affordable still. You can find out more about the winery in my post here.

But now to the wine: The cork was in perfect condition and I decanted it for about 30 minutes. It poured in a light golden color, with some visible signs of ageing. The initial nose was very unappealing, strong musty aromas, some hints of leather, hardly any other aromas detectable. At that point, I was worried it might be flawed from that nose. On the palate, it was surprisingly fresh. The mustiness was not detectable when I tasted the wine. It was very delicate, and had contracted quite a bit, making it rather thin. It showed a good acidity structure with just a hint of sweetness. There really were no noticeable fruit aromas, I got more petrolly, aged Riesling flavors. A finish of medium length.

All in all, this was a bit weird. The nose was definitely not nice and it did not improve when I retasted a day later. The wine tasted still decently, but I thought the Hospitien wine we had last year had held up better. But another year of bottle age can also make a lot of a difference, so it is virtually impossible to compare the wines if you don’t try them on the same day. That said, this wine is most likely on its way out.

But hey, it held up for 26 years! And remember, this was “just” a Spätlese, not an Auslese or Beerenauslese. And it was from a vintage that is considered a rather weak vintage…so, absolutely nothing to complain about. The bottle cost us around $16 at the winery, if I remember correctly.

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Sunday Read: German Pinot Noir: Insipid? No, Inspiring.

I want to return to a topic with this Sunday Read that many outside of Germany, and admittedly even within Germany, usually stare at me blankly or with an amused look on their faces: red wines from Germany. Even more “ridiculous” when you talk about the queen of red grapes, Pinot Noir. But let’s face it: Pinot Noir is at its best in not too hot climates, like Burgundy or Oregon or New Zealand…and Germany. Yes, Germany. I am currently waiting for a shipment of some Pinot Noirs that have been highly praised in Germany (from Guenther Steinmetz) and I am super excited about it. German red wine, and in particular Pinot Noir, has made bounds and leaps ahead and what winemakers have produced is exciting.

So thinks Stuart Pigott, an English transplant into Germany, who has been one of the big storytellers for Riesling and German wine in general, with books like “Wine Speaks German” and tastings, and reviews, and columns in major newspapers. For Wine-Searcher, he wrote a piece on German Pinot Noir.

Give it a try, if you can. Happy Sunday!

Wine-Searcher: German Pinot Noir: Insipid? No, Inspiring.

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Sunday Read: German Riesling’s Turn in the Spotlight

Some of you might have heard of it: In February, New York City witnessed the first “Rieslingfeier”, an event to celebrate the beauty that is Riesling. It was the first such event, privately organized by Crush and Spirits and some other wine stores in NYC. One cannot say that Riesling isn’t being pushed these days in the US, with events like “Summer of Riesling” and others, and the German wine promotion agency is very much on its toes promoting it more. Still, this event seemed like something very special: With tastings in three wine stores, with winemakers present, and a collector’s dinner to finish the day. I would have loved to join, but this is one of those moments were it sucks to be in the middle of nowhere Ann Arbor: NYC quite far away, Chicago 5 hours away…there’s just not much going on here…

Eric Asimov wrote a thoughtful, yet somewhat restrained (is that the right word?) piece about the event. The article shows what this event is surrounded by, and the attention that all sorts of regions and wines are trying to garner for themselves. And in that light, Riesling is still a smaller light. So I decided to share it, because Riesling needs all the attention it can get.

Happy Sunday!

New York Times: German Riesling’s Turn in the Spotlight

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